Last week I was very surprised to meet two makers of England’s Westcombe Cheddar. Tom Calver and his father were visiting New York’s specialty cheese stores before heading up to Vermont to Jasper Hill Farm. When they introduced themselves, I was a little embarrassed because I’ve never tried Westcombe Cheddar. They were so friendly, they didn’t hold it against me.
Our store stocks Montgomery’s and Keen’s Cheddar and a cheddar like cheese called Lincolnshire Poacher. Tom describes his cheese as in between the rounded, meatiness of Monty’s and the grassy earthiness of Keen’s. Tom told us that he had brought some cheese with him and offered us a taste. Of course we said yes and he pulled out a giant hunk of his family’s Caerphilly. As we smelled the rind he told us about the cave they built with a stream running through it. The furry gray mold smelled so mushroomy and clean, it was like we were standing in the cave. The mold must love all that humidity! They cheese was beautifully creamy and earthy. Then the bad news: Tom said that they never make enough of their Caerphilly to export it. Utter torture! He did ask us to come to Somerset to make cheese for a couple days. I wish I could just pack up and join them.
Actually, I wish I could join them just in going up to Jasper Hill. The Calver’s told me that they were especially interested in seeing the robots that turn the wheels of cheddar. I guess they want to expand their own caves. Jasper Hill is currently building a huge complex of caves, eight, I think. (E)
Brooklyn Cheese Mongers 